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#26 | |
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Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Out to lunch. WI
Posts: 5,341
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Can't believe this wasn't touched...
What do you have inside your car? From what I can see in that bay pic you might have a hefty stero system. Put that car on a diet. Also, what model is it? And, what tires are you running? A tune couldn't hurt either.
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06 CBR 1000 RR -FS $6.5k low miles! http://www.hondamarketplace.com/show....php?t=2808636 |
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#27 |
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Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Anderson,Indiana
Posts: 53
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Its an SI chassis. theres no radio the wiring your seeing is for the battery its in the rear hatch area. the tires suck there old I need to replace all of them I was making fun of one of them at the track calling it a cheater slick. I think I found a chassis dyno a frind of mine is going to find out if they offer tuning services and can burn chips for hondas
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#28 | |
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Honda-Tech Member
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Quote:
As for your intake f22killer, I wouldn't classify that as a short ram with it behind the headlight. The cooler air that makes it past wil be fine, if you wanna do as suggested and invert it so it's sticking out your hood, be sure to post some pictures. But you will be flamed and referred to as a "ricer". Also, will you be converting to obd1 before you tune, or will you just be tuning via your vafc?
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95 Thunderbird SC 5spd - (1 of 574) 91 Hatch - Almost there...I think. 88 Hatch - Rusted n Sold . 93 Hatch - T-Boned by Blazer . 94 2 door - Sold to Friend |
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#29 |
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Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Anderson,Indiana
Posts: 53
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So i cant have a chip burnt for my pr3. obd1 would be nice but is it really necessary. If so I need a jumper harness and another ecu. I have another part to the intake I just havent messed with putting it on. I dont drive the car very often its more of a toy.
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#30 |
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Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 15
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I would think tires might make the biggest difference considering your launching at that high of an RPM and said your tires are shot, my sohc zc CRX with bolt ons runs low 15's on street tires with full interior, i have to launch at like 2000rpm to keep from spinning, my first run in it I launched at 3500 and ran a 16.7, my best is a 15.3 since then, seat time will help.
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#31 |
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Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Montana
Posts: 21
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hondata s300, better cams, tuning, better tires
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#32 |
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Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: GA, U.S
Posts: 192
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For a b16, your times are feasible, but then again with the mods you have, it should run quicker... Like everyone says, get the car tuned asap. And secondly, I think you can go a little quicker by launch the car at a higher rpm. Of course your going to spin, but fwd cars need wheel spin to move off the line. Lower the psi in the front tires, feather the clutch off the line, and flat shift all the way! And raise the rear tire psi to the max, to reduce rolling resistance.
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JJSPEC Racing 89 CRX Y49 overlapped LS
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#33 |
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Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Seattle, Wa, usa
Posts: 39
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OBD1 is the best route to go get rid of the vafc and pr3 for a p28. possibly go with a hondata s300 program. plus with all that in the engine you need seat time and good tires. any b series is a low 15 if not mid 14 second range in the 1/4 mile. so i would say practice and tires and dial in your suspension. i would expect to hit low 14s all day if not 13.9
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#34 |
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Honda-Tech Member
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[quote=pearl95sc;43185673]So if your logic is correct, my NON INTERCOOLED 10psi JRSC setup with my air filter in the same place should have what, 250-300 deg + IAT temperatures? [quote]
FI setups are 651351351% different than NA setups for starters. I'm not going to write out all of the reasons here why short ram intakes are backwards cause some people just won't listen. Are you suggesting that the air you intake sits in one place long enough to have 300 degrees of heat transfer to take place? Not to mention 200-300 degree air is INSANELY cooler compared to your combustion chamber temperatures. Please.....get an education before arguing with googled resources and information.
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My project 88 crx si drag/street----->http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2800664 2004 Yamaha R1 for sale----->http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2802808 |
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#35 |
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Honda-Tech Member
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i ran 14.9 on shitty 13 tires with a bone stock Ls (B18a1) in my hatch... all it had was the headlight removed and a "velocity stack"... your car definitly should be runnin at the least 14.0 but i think u should be in the 13s with good tires and a good launch... idk if your car was spinning through the gears but if it was make it hook and your golden... i have vids and timeslips if u wanna see them... but as for your next upgrade i would suggest a better suspension and to launch at a way lower rpm i launch at like 1800-2000rpm and still get some tires spin...
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JDMCOUPECOUNCIL / (all honda makes welcome) We Roll As A Family |
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#36 |
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Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: chicagoland, illinois, US
Posts: 53
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New to H-T not to cars |
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#37 |
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Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Anderson,Indiana
Posts: 53
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I going back to the track tonight I just got a set of tires for the front so im hoping it will get a better launch. What is the stock fuel pressure for a b16 I bought this car allready swaped. Most of my honda experance is with accord and prelude motors this is the first B series ive ever had. Im going to lower the fuel pressure to 36 idle and 45 wot as a starting point. As of right know I dont have the cash for a new ecu so would adjusting vafc and playing with the ignition timeing help or is it all controlled by the ecu. The guy I talked to about the chassis dyno said the guy dosent mess with hondas so guess im going have to tune this at the track with my times and watching my trap speed. The 15.5 I ran was one of the last two passes I made and the times were coming down so I think I can get my car into the 14s with what I have to work with
Last edited by f22 killer; 08-04-2010 at 09:44 AM. Reason: #1 |
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#38 |
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Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: chester, va, united states
Posts: 381
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How sure are you that your motor is built the way you described if you bought the car the
way it is? If it is as you say then a tune is all you really need. Save your money and get all the things nessessary to get a tune and do it. I would almost garuantee with a tune and some practice you will be in the 13's or damn close. Do that then start getting things like tires and weight savings. |
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#39 |
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Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: GTA
Posts: 66
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Tune Tune Tune for the motor , Drag radials or slicks for the car and Seat Time for you.
A b16 with those mods in a light ef should be in the 13s My B16 EG (2290lbs) ran on its first time out this season a 13.67@99 and 13.69@102 both with 2.0 60' on DR's Practice and have fun, cause thats what its about
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188whp, 118ft/lbs...12:1 B16 can still squeeze more HP out of the stock port head, new numbers to come |
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#40 |
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Honda-Tech Member
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Good luck
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#41 |
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Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Anderson,Indiana
Posts: 53
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Ive known the last 3 owners of the car and motor. The guy that first bought the motor used it in a 91 hatch it ate a valve thats when the cams and pistons were installed and the head was built. Me and the guy that owned it before me put the motor in this car. he proceded to do all the bolt ons but never got the wiring figured out so it sat in his side yard for a year. Then i offered him a honda 300ex and some cash for the car 2 days later I had a running hatch. Also I got rained out we have some nasty storms rollen through so I have to wait for saturday to get more track time.
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